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In the time between finishing those knee socks and starting more WWFY socks, I managed to finish knitting a thing for ME ME ME! They are spats:

Pattern: Spiffy Spats, located further down this post and also ravel-able here
Yarn: Cascade Ecological Wool, about 50g
Needles: US 9/5.5 mm


These spats are great for A. keeping your ankles warm and B. looking awesome while piloting your airship. They are named for my friend Spiffy, who is the most steampunk-eriffic person I know and also likes knitting and ruffles. They come in one size (but the ribbing is quite stretchy) and knit up in just a couple of hours and are SUPER easy to make. They would look awesome in a variety of colors, but I made mine in grey to match things.

You will need:

– About 50g heavy worsted weight/light bulky yarn
– A set of 5.5 mm dpns or a long circular for magic loop
– A stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round
– An iron with a steam setting (trust me on this)

Things you should probably know:

– Knit, purl, increase (kfb), cast on, bind off, knit in the round


K: Knit
P: Purl
CO: Cast on
BO: Bind off
KFB: Knit into the front and back of the stitch

SPATS (knit two):

CO 36. Place marker for beginning of round and work in 2×2 rib (knit 2, purl 2) around for each row), slipping the marker as you come to it for 20 rows or until desired length.

Increase row: KFB around.

Continue knitting ruffle: Knit in stockinette (knit every row) for 8 rows or until ruffle reaches desired row.

Work two rows of seed stitch:
row one: k1, p1 around
row two: p1, k1 around

BO in seed stitch.

Finishing: Weave in ends. Block the crap out of the spats (seriously, this step is important to getting them to lie flat). You could wet block too, but unless you were knitting them in mud, steam is sufficient. Sew on cute buttons, rock your spats.

That’s seriously it! I told you they were quick and easy!


Alright, y’all, the pattern for Geometric Spirals is up and ready! Since it includes a chart, I’m not going to post it here like I did for Lilith and the Tissue Cozy. This means you’ll have to mosey on over to Ravelry to pick up the pdf. Deets/Link below.

Geometric Spirals

A free pattern, available for download.

download now

Yarn: 100-150 yards worsted weight in MC and 30 yards in CC

Needles: US 8/5 mm dpns and 16″ circular needle

You will also need a tapestry needle and a stitch marker.

Finished size: To fit 20″-23″ head (should fit most adult heads)

Okay, who remembers sweater number 12 of the knit-12-sweaters-in-a-year challenge? Anyone? Well, it looks like this:


Yes, Lilith. Well, I spent some time writing things out and getting things test-knitted, and now it’s a free pattern, for all to enjoy!

(Mini copyright notice: Don’t be a jerk. You didn’t write the pattern, so don’t say you did. Link people back to the blog if you want to share it. Don’t sell the pattern anywhere.)

(Ravel it here!)

An original design by Breeanna Sveum

1. This is less of a pattern and more of a general guideline. The sweater is basically a top-down raglan with some modifications for the wrap front.
2. Because of this, there are no sizes and there will not be row by row directions. Knit each section (like the arms) until it fits you.
3. All increases occur in right-side (knit) rows.

– Yarn. For a small, I used about 200 g of worsted weight (about four skeins of Knit Picks Comfy Worsted). For the short sleeves, the whole thing takes probably the same amount as a cami or tank top. Longer sleeves will require more yarn.
– US 7/4.5 mm 24” circular needle and dpns or size to achieve gauge you like.
– Four stitch markers
– Waste yarn
– Four 1” buttons plus one smaller one

CO: Cast on
K: Knit
P: Purl
pm: Place marker
kfb: Knit into the front and back, increasing by one
k2tog: Knit two together
p2tog: Purl two together
BO: Bind off
2×2 Ribbing: Knit 2, purl 2 across.


CO 61 stitches. (for a wider neckline, you may want to cast on a few more and adjust below)
K7, pm, K11, pm, K25, pm, K11, pm, K7
Purl across.
You will now begin the raglan increases for the sleeves. kfb before and after each marker on each right side row until the second section and the fourth sections (between markers one and two and between three and four) are large enough to fit around your arms.

AT THE SAME TIME: Increase one by lifting the bar between two stitches (m1) after the first stitch and right before the last stitch of the first right side row and every tenth row. For a wider front (for a larger bust), increase every eight or six rows.

When arm sections are long enough*, knit to first marker, remove marker, and place the next section of stitches (before the next marker) on scrap yarn. Remove the next marker. Knit across back to next marker. Remove it, then place next set of stitches on scrap yarn. Remove the last marker and knit to end of row, including any increases for the front that are necessary.

*Instead of trying to get the sleeve around your arm, you can measure it will GAUGE! Take your stitch gauge over four inches (we’ll say 12) and your arm measurement around your upper arm, including desired ease, (we’ll say 12” for simplicity) and multiply them (144), then divide by four (36). This will give you the number of stitches for your sleeve. When you have, say, 36 stitches in your sleeve sections, put them on scrap yarn and continue below.

Continue in stockinette, increasing at the beginning and end of each row every four rows (more often if you’re busty) until the fronts meet (it should be just under your bust).

Increase at the beginning and end of every other row until fronts overlap at least one inch. Continue in stockinette until desired length is reached.
Knit 1.5 inches of 2×2 ribbing. BO loosely.

Transfer stitches on scrap yarn to dpns, distributing as comfortable. Pick up and knit 3 to 5 stitches in the gap underneath the sleeve. Join in the round and knit one row in stockinette. Decrease one stitch (k2tog) per round until you have a multiple of four stitches (if you already have a multiple of four, decrease four stitches). Continue knitting in stockinette (knit every row) until sleeve reaches an inch above elbow.. Knit 1.5 inches of 2×2 ribbing and BO loosely. Repeat for other sleeve.

Neckline/Button band:
Starting at lower right corner of cardigan, pick up and knit stitches all the way up the front, around the back of the neck and down the other side of the left front. Pick up about four stitches for every five rows/stitches you see.

Knit two rows of 2×2 ribbing.
Knit in ribbing to last 28 stitches (where fronts overlap). K2, yo, p2tog, *K2, P2, K2, yo, p2tog, Repeat from * twice more (or more for more button holes). K2.
Knit two more rows of 2×2 ribbing.
BO loosely.

Block/wash if desired and sew on four larger buttons to match buttonholes. Sew on smaller button on inside of right front where fronts cross. The button should fit in the stitches to straighten out the overlap so the front left that’s underneath doesn’t fall/get wrinkled up.

Lilith pattern is protected by a Creative Commons copyright: You may print the pattern for personal use, but please do not sell the pattern or items made from the pattern without express, written permission from the author, Breeanna Sveum, who can be reached at Please do not pass off the pattern as your own. Print as many copies as you like, but the copywrite information, as well as contact information MUST appear on all copies. In other words, don’t be a jerk..

Or: The Surprise I’ve Been Mentioning/Promising My Readers

With cold and flu season upon us, it’s wise to carry tissues on your person at all times. If you don’t use them, at the very least, someone will ask you for one. For those of us with large purses, this usually means digging around for five minutes, only to come up with a handful of disintegrated tissue fragments, and no one wants to blow their nose on that.

This is where I come in! For your knitting pleasure, I’ve designed a cozy to hold your tissues in place for easy access and to avoid fragments. It holds either a small pocket-size package of tissue or 6-10 tissues that you fold yourself.


Well, yes, there are quite a few. What do those patterns have that mine doesn’t have anyway? Well, I’ll tell you. Seams. That’s right folks, my tissue cozy pattern is COMPLETELY SEAMLESS. No side seams at all. WIN.

And, out of the goodness of my heart, I’ve decided to offer this lovely pattern for the low, low price of FREE. That’s right, boys and girls, totally free! (Well, there’s copyright information and whatnot.)

I know, I know. GET ON WITH IT ALREADY. I’m getting.

A free pattern courtesy of Breeanna Sveum and The Adulterous Whores Club
(Ravel it here!)

You will need to know how to:

– Knit.
– Purl.
– Bind off (regular kind)
– Kitchener Stitch BO
– Figure 8 Cast On

Note: Excellent instructions for the figure eight cast on are here (scroll down a bit).


— Worsted weight yarn (~30-40 yards)
— Set of 5 US 7/4.5 mm dpns
— A stitch marker
— A button, any size really.


K – Knit
P – Purl
CO – Cast on
BO – Bind off


Using a figure eight cast on, CO 36 stitches, 18 on each needle. Knit one round and divide onto four dpns (9 stitches on each needle), marking the beginning of the round.

Knit eight rounds even.

K4, BO 10, K around.

Knit four rows in stockinette, back and forth (Purl across, turn, knit across, turn, purl across, turn, knit across.).

K4. Using a backwards loop, CO 10. K to the end of the round.

Work even for eight rounds.

Using the Kitchener stitch, BO all stitches.

Weave in ends. Sew button on one side of opening and make a button loop on the other side. Insert tissues and fasten closed.

How to fold tissues to fit:

— Fold in thirds hot dog style (long ways)
— Fold in half hamburger style (short ways)
–Alternatively, just get a pocket pack and stick that in there.

Copyright: Don’t be a jerk. Don’t sell the pattern, don’t claim you wrote the pattern, and please point people to the blog,, when showing people the pattern.

Don’t want to make your own? Probably these will be making an appearance in my Artfire studio (link on the right) soon. Shoot me a comment/email if you don’t want to wait!