Okay, who remembers sweater number 12 of the knit-12-sweaters-in-a-year challenge? Anyone? Well, it looks like this:


Yes, Lilith. Well, I spent some time writing things out and getting things test-knitted, and now it’s a free pattern, for all to enjoy!

(Mini copyright notice: Don’t be a jerk. You didn’t write the pattern, so don’t say you did. Link people back to the blog if you want to share it. Don’t sell the pattern anywhere.)

(Ravel it here!)

An original design by Breeanna Sveum

1. This is less of a pattern and more of a general guideline. The sweater is basically a top-down raglan with some modifications for the wrap front.
2. Because of this, there are no sizes and there will not be row by row directions. Knit each section (like the arms) until it fits you.
3. All increases occur in right-side (knit) rows.

– Yarn. For a small, I used about 200 g of worsted weight (about four skeins of Knit Picks Comfy Worsted). For the short sleeves, the whole thing takes probably the same amount as a cami or tank top. Longer sleeves will require more yarn.
– US 7/4.5 mm 24” circular needle and dpns or size to achieve gauge you like.
– Four stitch markers
– Waste yarn
– Four 1” buttons plus one smaller one

CO: Cast on
K: Knit
P: Purl
pm: Place marker
kfb: Knit into the front and back, increasing by one
k2tog: Knit two together
p2tog: Purl two together
BO: Bind off
2×2 Ribbing: Knit 2, purl 2 across.


CO 61 stitches. (for a wider neckline, you may want to cast on a few more and adjust below)
K7, pm, K11, pm, K25, pm, K11, pm, K7
Purl across.
You will now begin the raglan increases for the sleeves. kfb before and after each marker on each right side row until the second section and the fourth sections (between markers one and two and between three and four) are large enough to fit around your arms.

AT THE SAME TIME: Increase one by lifting the bar between two stitches (m1) after the first stitch and right before the last stitch of the first right side row and every tenth row. For a wider front (for a larger bust), increase every eight or six rows.

When arm sections are long enough*, knit to first marker, remove marker, and place the next section of stitches (before the next marker) on scrap yarn. Remove the next marker. Knit across back to next marker. Remove it, then place next set of stitches on scrap yarn. Remove the last marker and knit to end of row, including any increases for the front that are necessary.

*Instead of trying to get the sleeve around your arm, you can measure it will GAUGE! Take your stitch gauge over four inches (we’ll say 12) and your arm measurement around your upper arm, including desired ease, (we’ll say 12” for simplicity) and multiply them (144), then divide by four (36). This will give you the number of stitches for your sleeve. When you have, say, 36 stitches in your sleeve sections, put them on scrap yarn and continue below.

Continue in stockinette, increasing at the beginning and end of each row every four rows (more often if you’re busty) until the fronts meet (it should be just under your bust).

Increase at the beginning and end of every other row until fronts overlap at least one inch. Continue in stockinette until desired length is reached.
Knit 1.5 inches of 2×2 ribbing. BO loosely.

Transfer stitches on scrap yarn to dpns, distributing as comfortable. Pick up and knit 3 to 5 stitches in the gap underneath the sleeve. Join in the round and knit one row in stockinette. Decrease one stitch (k2tog) per round until you have a multiple of four stitches (if you already have a multiple of four, decrease four stitches). Continue knitting in stockinette (knit every row) until sleeve reaches an inch above elbow.. Knit 1.5 inches of 2×2 ribbing and BO loosely. Repeat for other sleeve.

Neckline/Button band:
Starting at lower right corner of cardigan, pick up and knit stitches all the way up the front, around the back of the neck and down the other side of the left front. Pick up about four stitches for every five rows/stitches you see.

Knit two rows of 2×2 ribbing.
Knit in ribbing to last 28 stitches (where fronts overlap). K2, yo, p2tog, *K2, P2, K2, yo, p2tog, Repeat from * twice more (or more for more button holes). K2.
Knit two more rows of 2×2 ribbing.
BO loosely.

Block/wash if desired and sew on four larger buttons to match buttonholes. Sew on smaller button on inside of right front where fronts cross. The button should fit in the stitches to straighten out the overlap so the front left that’s underneath doesn’t fall/get wrinkled up.

Lilith pattern is protected by a Creative Commons copyright: You may print the pattern for personal use, but please do not sell the pattern or items made from the pattern without express, written permission from the author, Breeanna Sveum, who can be reached at bsveum@gmail.com. Please do not pass off the pattern as your own. Print as many copies as you like, but the copywrite information, as well as contact information MUST appear on all copies. In other words, don’t be a jerk..